ONLINE EXCLUSIVE A primer on by Bill Reynolds, Washburne Culinary Institute A trip through the regions of this huge continent showcases indigenous and external influences on African cuisine he connection between Africa and the New World is a historical and reciprocal one that continues to inspire the way we eat today. Like all cuisines, both American and African cooking have been influenced by indigenous ingredients as well as products introduced from outside their borders.The spicy chiles that are common in so many African dishes owe a debt to traders who came from the Americas.Likewise,the watermelon enjoyed by many Americans on a hot summer day originated in southern Africa.The “all-American” peanut actually came to U.S. southern states by way of Africa, where it was first introduced by Portuguese traders traveling from Brazil and Peru.The introduction of corn and tomatoes from the New World has had a far-reaching and strong influence on African cooking, as well. Thus, certain ingredients that have become so much a part of both cultures’ cooking got their start miles apart from one another. The African influence on American cooking is not limited to ingredients, as most of us know. The influence of African cooks particularly on southern American cooking is legendary.Their influence was even more strongly felt throughout the Caribbean and Brazil, especially in Jamaica and Bahia. Dishes like hoppin’ John (black-eyed peas with salt pork) and jerk chicken, braised greens, cornbread and banana fritters are all believed to be the work of African cooks. Ironically, some historians go so far as to say that the addition of vitamin- and mineral-rich plant foods introduced by African slaves saved their white owners from nutritional deficiency. More recently, the popularity of the Mediterranean diet introduced many more of us to the cook- African cuisine ing of northern Africa to the point where couscous has taken its place next to rice in many American cupboards.We’ve all learned that Moroccan, Algerian and Tunisian dishes are rich in heart-healthy olive oil, protein-rich legumes, Omega-3-filled fishes and fiber-laden whole grains. An assortment of African-style cold salads prepared during “The Flavors of Africa” FENI Master Class oil with variations that include cumin and/or coriander, garlic, lemon and tomatoes. Salads are also a very important part of this area’s cuisine and include just about every kind of fruit and vegetable you can think of. Particularly favored are salads with carrots, oranges, fava beans, tomatoes, eggplant and olives. T North Africa The flavor influences of northern Africa go back centuries and include contributions from the indigenous Berbers, the ancient Phoenicians and Romans, the Turks, the French and Spanish, as well as Arabs and Jews. Someone once said that the cuisine here was rooted in Africa, watered by Islam and rustled by the winds of Europe. These influences are evident in the characteristic stews or tagines of this region, which often mix sweet and savory through the inclusion of fresh and dried fruits. Heavily flavored with saffron, cumin, ginger and coriander, this stew is slowly baked in an earthenware dish covered with a unique funnelshaped top that gives the dish its name. The most distinctive and unusual secret ingredient in most tagines is preserved lemon. The unusual flavor is developed by packing small-cut lemons in salt for at least a month, thereby developing a citrusy sour flavor that is as unique as it is delicious. Fortunately, you don’t have to go to the trouble of making your own, as preserved lemons have become easily accessible in many grocery stores and online.Another characteristic flavoring agent is the blistering-hot pepper paste called harissa. This ubiquitous blend starts out with hot piri-piri peppers and olive South Africa Another region strongly influenced by outside forces is South Africa. Because of its strategic location at the point where the south Atlantic meets the Indian Ocean, it was an important port for the Dutch and Portuguese seeking trade routes to India and Indonesia. The cuisine started with the Khoikhoi people—hunters and gatherers who also raised cattle and sheep, which are still important staples today. They also enjoyed the fruits of the sea including mussels, abalone and the infamous rock lobster. These indigenous people, however, were forced into central Africa as the Dutch started to take more control of the area. The Boers, as they were called, not only brought in their own culinary traditions; they also were responsible for the introduction of Indonesian cuisine. The slave trade didn’t just take people out of Africa, it also brought in slaves from Bengal, Sumatra, Java and Malaysia to work the land acquired by the Dutch. This brought the introduction of curries, chutneys and sambals. The great variety of local fruits and vegetables offered endless possibilities for these dishes and condiments. The French Huguenots followed and brought with them grapevines that have since helped to make South African wines some of the best in the world. The Germans and British 26 Chef Educator Today / Summer 2010